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Docs/CasePrinting.md
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Docs/CasePrinting.md
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First, [work out which board](WhatBoardDoIHave.md) you have.
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Go to [the Thingiverse entry](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656531) for the cases and download the correct version
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for the board you have.
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You now have several options:
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- Print it yourself
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- Take your STL and send it to someone from 3DHubs.
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Regardless of what you choose, make sure to follow the print settings listed
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on the Thingiverse listing.
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Most importantly, ensure that you print the cases in the orientation that they've
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been rendered at - small side down for the case, and clip side down for the rear
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cover.
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My cases are printed in PLA but ABS should work fine.
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## Installing the PCB
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Simply slide the PCB into the open back of the case. Depending on your tolerances,
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this may be a tight fit. Don't panic! It's designed to be locked in so it doesn't
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come out when inserting it into the USB port.
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**Make sure the reset switch doesn't get caught on the rear opening.** The
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switch itself is quite fragile and will easily pop off if you are too violent.
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Once the board is snapped in, insert the rear cover. It's designed to bend, so
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expect a nice snug fit. **If you are using V4** this won't be quite flush with the
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back of the case. This is due to a PCB design oversight when I made the V4 board.
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*If you have any issues with a self-printed case, please don't hesitate to contact me!*
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Docs/Tatacon.jpg
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Docs/UserGuide.md
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Docs/UserGuide.md
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# Overview
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There are several ports on the converters:
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* A - USB port. Plug into computer
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* B - Nunchuck port. Plug into Tatacon
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* C - Light hole. A hole for blinking
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* D - Reset hole. In case of firmware update failure, poking this with a
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toothpick or similar puts the board into failsafe (bootloader) mode.
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# Configuration
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Plug the converter in to your computer and open the [TaTaConfig](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/tataconfig/ndeibflmpllogilncdmoajadcopjkchg).
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Here are the available settings:
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* Keys - The converter pretends to be a keyboard. Which keys should it hit?
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* Enable LEDs - Enable or disable LEDs on each hit
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* Switch debouncing. If 2 hits are made within the debounce time, the second
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is ignored. Higher values give less false positives. Lower values let you bounce
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your sticks for drum rolls.
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# Programming
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**At the time of writing, there are no firmware updates** for the converters.
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However, if you would like to write or fork your own firmware, you are free to.
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You can program via USB using the HIDBootloader sample application from the
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LUFA distribution. If you want to modify the bootloader, you must use the ISP
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breakouts. Plug the converter into a USB port for power, and connect the rest
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of the pins to the labelled pads on the board.
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I used pogo pins and a short USB extension lead when programming the boards,
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and it made the process very fast.
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Docs/WhatBoardDoIHave.md
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# Which board do I have?
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### You have a V5 if...
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- Your converter came with a case
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- Your converter has a half smiley face on the bottom
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- Your converter has `Rev 5` written on the bottom.
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- Your reset switch is on the left
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### You have a V4 if...
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- Your converter did not come with a case
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- Your converter has an entire smiley face on the bottom
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- Your reset switch is on the lower section
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