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William Toohey
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First, [work out which board](WhatBoardDoIHave.md) you have.
Go to [the Thingiverse entry](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656531) for the cases and download the correct version
for the board you have.
You now have several options:
- Print it yourself
- Take your STL and send it to someone from 3DHubs.
Regardless of what you choose, make sure to follow the print settings listed
on the Thingiverse listing.
Most importantly, ensure that you print the cases in the orientation that they've
been rendered at - small side down for the case, and clip side down for the rear
cover.
My cases are printed in PLA but ABS should work fine.
## Installing the PCB
Simply slide the PCB into the open back of the case. Depending on your tolerances,
this may be a tight fit. Don't panic! It's designed to be locked in so it doesn't
come out when inserting it into the USB port.
**Make sure the reset switch doesn't get caught on the rear opening.** The
switch itself is quite fragile and will easily pop off if you are too violent.
Once the board is snapped in, insert the rear cover. It's designed to bend, so
expect a nice snug fit. **If you are using V4** this won't be quite flush with the
back of the case. This is due to a PCB design oversight when I made the V4 board.
*If you have any issues with a self-printed case, please don't hesitate to contact me!*

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# Overview
There are several ports on the converters:
![Tatacon overview](Tatacon.jpg)
* A - USB port. Plug into computer
* B - Nunchuck port. Plug into Tatacon
* C - Light hole. A hole for blinking
* D - Reset hole. In case of firmware update failure, poking this with a
toothpick or similar puts the board into failsafe (bootloader) mode.
# Configuration
Plug the converter in to your computer and open the [TaTaConfig](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/tataconfig/ndeibflmpllogilncdmoajadcopjkchg).
Here are the available settings:
* Keys - The converter pretends to be a keyboard. Which keys should it hit?
* Enable LEDs - Enable or disable LEDs on each hit
* Switch debouncing. If 2 hits are made within the debounce time, the second
is ignored. Higher values give less false positives. Lower values let you bounce
your sticks for drum rolls.
# Programming
**At the time of writing, there are no firmware updates** for the converters.
However, if you would like to write or fork your own firmware, you are free to.
You can program via USB using the HIDBootloader sample application from the
LUFA distribution. If you want to modify the bootloader, you must use the ISP
breakouts. Plug the converter into a USB port for power, and connect the rest
of the pins to the labelled pads on the board.
I used pogo pins and a short USB extension lead when programming the boards,
and it made the process very fast.

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# Which board do I have?
### You have a V5 if...
- Your converter came with a case
- Your converter has a half smiley face on the bottom
- Your converter has `Rev 5` written on the bottom.
- Your reset switch is on the left
### You have a V4 if...
- Your converter did not come with a case
- Your converter has an entire smiley face on the bottom
- Your reset switch is on the lower section