diff --git a/Docs/CasePrinting.md b/Docs/CasePrinting.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..914a525
--- /dev/null
+++ b/Docs/CasePrinting.md
@@ -0,0 +1,30 @@
+First, [work out which board](WhatBoardDoIHave.md) you have.
+
+Go to [the Thingiverse entry](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656531) for the cases and download the correct version
+for the board you have.
+
+You now have several options:
+- Print it yourself
+- Take your STL and send it to someone from 3DHubs.
+
+Regardless of what you choose, make sure to follow the print settings listed
+on the Thingiverse listing.
+
+Most importantly, ensure that you print the cases in the orientation that they've
+been rendered at - small side down for the case, and clip side down for the rear
+cover.
+
+My cases are printed in PLA but ABS should work fine.
+
+## Installing the PCB
+Simply slide the PCB into the open back of the case. Depending on your tolerances,
+this may be a tight fit. Don't panic! It's designed to be locked in so it doesn't
+come out when inserting it into the USB port.
+**Make sure the reset switch doesn't get caught on the rear opening.** The
+switch itself is quite fragile and will easily pop off if you are too violent.
+
+Once the board is snapped in, insert the rear cover. It's designed to bend, so
+expect a nice snug fit. **If you are using V4** this won't be quite flush with the
+back of the case. This is due to a PCB design oversight when I made the V4 board.
+
+*If you have any issues with a self-printed case, please don't hesitate to contact me!*
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/Docs/Tatacon.jpg b/Docs/Tatacon.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9e7ee01
Binary files /dev/null and b/Docs/Tatacon.jpg differ
diff --git a/Docs/UserGuide.md b/Docs/UserGuide.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5c9f409
--- /dev/null
+++ b/Docs/UserGuide.md
@@ -0,0 +1,31 @@
+# Overview
+There are several ports on the converters:
+![Tatacon overview](Tatacon.jpg)
+
+* A - USB port. Plug into computer
+* B - Nunchuck port. Plug into Tatacon
+* C - Light hole. A hole for blinking
+* D - Reset hole. In case of firmware update failure, poking this with a 
+toothpick or similar puts the board into failsafe (bootloader) mode.
+
+# Configuration
+Plug the converter in to your computer and open the [TaTaConfig](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/tataconfig/ndeibflmpllogilncdmoajadcopjkchg).
+Here are the available settings:
+
+* Keys - The converter pretends to be a keyboard. Which keys should it hit?
+* Enable LEDs - Enable or disable LEDs on each hit
+* Switch debouncing. If 2 hits are made within the debounce time, the second
+is ignored. Higher values give less false positives. Lower values let you bounce
+your sticks for drum rolls.
+
+# Programming
+**At the time of writing, there are no firmware updates** for the converters.
+
+However, if you would like to write or fork your own firmware, you are free to.
+You can program via USB using the HIDBootloader sample application from the
+LUFA distribution. If you want to modify the bootloader, you must use the ISP
+breakouts. Plug the converter into a USB port for power, and connect the rest
+of the pins to the labelled pads on the board.
+
+I used pogo pins and a short USB extension lead when programming the boards,
+and it made the process very fast.
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/Docs/WhatBoardDoIHave.md b/Docs/WhatBoardDoIHave.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0171923
--- /dev/null
+++ b/Docs/WhatBoardDoIHave.md
@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+# Which board do I have?
+
+### You have a V5 if...
+- Your converter came with a case
+- Your converter has a half smiley face on the bottom
+- Your converter has `Rev 5` written on the bottom.
+- Your reset switch is on the left
+
+### You have a V4 if...
+- Your converter did not come with a case
+- Your converter has an entire smiley face on the bottom
+- Your reset switch is on the lower section
\ No newline at end of file